Sicilian Wine: If it’s Good Enough for Julius Caesar…

Sicilian wines are my next big wine obsession. If you’re not yet familiar with the wines coming from this island off the southern tip of Italy, there’s so much exploring to do!

Sicily itself is about 10,000 square miles in area, the largest Mediterranean island, and is, at its closest point, about 2 miles from the mainland of Italy. For comparison, It is fairly close in area to the size of Massachusetts or Vermont.

In terms of microclimate, Sicily has it all. From warm, sunny beaches to mountains to an active volcano, it’s all contained on one island. Viticulture, and winemaking, has flourished on this island since ancient times. It is even said that Mamertine, a sweet Sicilian wine from Milazzo in northeastern Sicily, was a favorite wine of Julius Caesar.

What makes Sicily so exciting from a wine perspective is that it is now one of Italy’s top wine producing areas in terms of both quantity and quality, and manages to do all this using many (or mostly) grape varieties just not well-known internationally. The area also is surprisingly overshadowed by other areas such as Piedmont and Tuscany.

There are 112,700 hectares of vineyards, 23 DOC and 1 DOCG classified regions, although surprisingly they account for only about 5% of the total vineyard area. Look to the other 95% for hidden gems.

You can divide Sicily roughly into three different regions – the west is best known for being home to Marsala, but also to many indigenous grape varieties, such as nero d’avola for reds as well as catarratto for whites.

Southeast Italy is a UNESCO world heritage site and is well known for wines made from nero d’avola and frappato. Northeast Italy is home to Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest active(!) volcano. The best vineyards are planted on the slopes of the volcano producing fresh, minerally wines from nerello mascalese and carricante.

There are also two smaller islands, Pantelleria and Lipari, that are off the coast of Sicily that are known for producing some of the best dessert wines in the world.

Sicily is home to more than 65 native grape varieties, and they are experimenting with many international varieties as well. It’s almost impossible to cover everything that’s going on right now. But let’s delve into some of the areas in a little more detail, along with some wines to look for.

The area of Sicily that is creating the most buzz right now is Mt. Etna in northeastern Sicily. Nearly 300 producers have planted vineyards on the slopes of the active volcano. These are some of the highest altitude vineyards in Italy (between 1000-3000 ft above sea level), many are planted a range of volcanic soils, even on cool lava flows known as contrade.

The climate of Mt. Etna is cool, rain-prone with high diurnal shifts (the difference between daytime highs and nighttime lows), and variable. There is a clash between the warm and humid air rising off the ocean and the cool air off the high mountain slopes. As a result, the best wines from Mt. Etna are characterized by fresh acid, minerality and elegant complexity.

Wines to look for come from one of several DOC’s on Mt. Etna. Etna Bianco DOC must be at least 60% carricante grape, which produces white wines with a racy, mineral character with notes of lime, salinity and citrus herbalness.

WINE TO TRY: Murgo Etna Bianco (Etna Bianco DOC)

The historical Tenuta San Michele vineyards, which represent the heart of Murgo’s production, are located 500m above sea level, sandwiched between Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. This wine exhibits both the minerality and crushed stone character imparted by the volcanic soils as well as salinity from the proximity to the sea. The minerality and salinity is nicely balanced by the floral, ripe peach, and citrus character from the blend of carricante and catarratto grapes.)

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/murgo-tenuta-san-michelle-etna-bianco/1045

Etna Rosso wines are primarily based on a grape called nerello mascalese, and tend to produce light colored, medium bodied wines with red-fruited raciness and minerality. Think a cross between a Pinot Noir and a Nebbiolo. You may also see blends with nerello cappuccio, a less complex grape which can add greater color to the wine.

WINE TO TRY: Graci Etna Rosso (Etna Rosso DOC)

Graci is one of the highly regarded producers in Etna. Their grapes are grown primarily on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, with the vineyards at 600-1000m above sea level. Grown in a sustainable way without the use of any pesticides, Graci uses only large well-used oak in order to preserve the personality of their vineyards. This particular wine, made from 100% nerello mascalese grapes, was fermented and aged in concrete, and has a combination of power and elegance, with the characteristic Etna qualities of ash, stone and dark fruit.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/graci-etna-rosso/397

Even though Etna is probably the most famous region in northeastern Siciliy, there are many delicious wines produced outside of the Etna DOC as well.

WINE TO TRY: Cantine Colosi Salina Bianco (Salina Bianco IGP)

Cantine Colosi is located on the island of Salina in the Aeolian archipelago off the northeastern corner of Sicily. With volcanic soils combined with the exposure to sun, relative scarcity of water, and cool breezes off the water, the area is considered to be one of the best for growing grape varieties such as nerello cappuccio, nerello mascalese, inzolia, catarratto and malvasia. This wine is 50% inzolia and 50% catarratto, two of Sicily’s important white grapes. Catarratto is a leading white grape in terms of production, while inzolia is an old, indigenous variety used on its own as well as in the production of Marsala.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/cantine-colosi-salina-bianco/338

In western Sicily, the climate is influenced by the warmth of the Mediterranean as well as by the Sicani Mountains and the western edge of the Sicilian Appenines. As such, one can find refreshing whites, and both fresh reds and full-bodied reds.

Nero d’Avola is probably the most planted red grape, producing full-bodied, soft wines with ripe fruit and a touch of spice. You will also see wines with perricone, an ancient grape with rich red fruit and tons of tannin, and syrah, the most widely planted international grape in Sicily.

WINE TO TRY: Tenuta Rapitalà Alto Reale Nero d’Avola (Sicilia DOC)

Tenuta Rapitalà covers 176 hectares in the hilly slopes near the village of Alcamo in western Sicily. The winery draws its name from the Arabic (Rabidh-Allah, or “river of Allah”), the stream that flows through the vineyards. The grapes for this wine are sourced from a single high-altitude vineyard (1300-1700 feet) from vines that are 10 years old. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine is then transferred to old and neutral French oak barrels to age for a year. This process gives this wine an elegance, with rich ripe fruit, freshness and delicate tannins.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/rapitala-alto-nero-d-avola/1156

For whites, look for fresh acidity from wines made from catarratto and chardonnay as well as other native grapes such as inzolia, grecanico and grillo.

WINE TO TRY: Donnafugata “Anthilia” White (Sicilia DOC)

Donnafugata has wineries located in 5 different locations, to better express the differing microclimates and terroir of different areas in Sicily. Anthilia is produced in southwestern Sicily, in the small region of Contessa Entellina, on the slopes of the Sicani Mountains. A blend of catarratto and inzolia, this wine has a fragrant bouquet of peach and wildflower. Fresh on the palate, it is refreshing with a long finish.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/donnafugata-anthilia-white/313

WINE TO TRY: Cantine Pellegrino Gibelé (Siciliane IGT)

Made from 100% Zibibbo grapes grown in the province of Trapani, on the western coast of the island. This area has a Mediterranean climate, with mild winters, limited rainfall, and hot, windy summers. Zibibbo, also known as Muscat of Alexandria, is primarily used in the production of the famous dessert wine Passito di Pantelleria. However, in this case, made as a still wine, it is a very aromatic grape, and this wine is intense and fruity, with notes of green apple and white rose, along with hints of herbal thyme and rosemary.

WINE TO TRY: Feudo Montoni Timpa Grillo (Sicilia DOC)

100% Grillo, which is a cross between catarratto and zibibbo. Feudo Montoni is located in the heart of Sicily. The word Timpa means strong slope, and is the name of the cru where the grapes are grown. The vineyard climbs up a hill with slopes at an angle greater than 70 degrees, at an altitude of 700 m above sea level. Fermentation is done in cement, in contact with the skins for a quarter of the fermentation process, and the wine is aged sur lie in cement for 6 months. These grapes from 30-year-old vines on sandy soil produce a wine with aromas of white peach and jasmine and other floral notes with a fresh acidity and a long, soft finish.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/cantine-pellegrino-gibel-/1313

You probably can’t talk about western Sicily without talking about Marsala. While there are many examples of cheap, cooking-wine-level Marsala available, a high-quality Marsala is one of the more delicious fortified wines produced.

A discussion on Marsala could be an article unto itself! In short, though, Marsala is a fortified wine made from grapes grown from around the town of Marsala, located on the western coast. It can range from dry to sweet, and deliver flavors of vanilla, brown sugar, dried apricot, honey, walnut.

Most Marsala is made from grillo, catarratto and inzolia grapes. Occasionally you see small amounts of perricone, nero d’avola and/or nerello mascalese in the mix. Most Marsala is made by making a white wine, fortifying it with brandy, then aging in barrel for one to 10 years (indicated on the label by aging designations such as superiore, superiore riserva etc). Many of the best Marsala wines are made using a process called in perpetuum – a process similar to the solera process used in Sherry production, in which younger wines are progressively blended with older wines using a complex system with multiple barrels.

WINE TO TRY: Cantine Pellegrino Marsala Superiore (Marsala DOC)

The area around Marsala is ideal for grillo, inzolia, catarratto and nero d’avola, grapes chosen for the production of Marsala. Pellegrino grows these grapes along the coast, where the proximity of the sea water makes the climate mild and warm, but not humid, ideal for ripening the grapes used for Marsala. This ripening process develops a large number of polyphenols in the grapes, which aid in the aging required to make a Marsala. The aging of this marsala takes place in highly toasted French oak barrels, which promotes the vanilla perfume on the wine. This is made in a dry style, with two years aging.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/pellegrino-marsala/1408

One more wine deserving of mention from that region is Passito di Pantelleria, a delicious dessert wine made on the island of Pantelleria, which sits off the western edge of Sicily. Made from the Zibbibo grape, the grapes are hand harvested and laid out on straw mats to dry in the sun for several weeks. Once they have dried and shriveled into raisins, the grapes are slowly fermented, producing a highly aromatic and intense flavors of dried apricot, flowers, ginger, nuts and honey.

WINE TO TRY: Donnafugata Ben Ryé (Passito di Pantelleria DOC)

Donnafugata’s Ben Ryé, which loosely translates to “son of the wind”, is considered to be one of the best examples of Passito di Pantelleria. Made from 100% Zibbibo grapes grown on the island of Pantelleria, this wine has a golden color, and an intense bouquet of apricot, candied orange peel and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, there are notes of honey, balanced exquisitely between sweetness and freshness. This wine was aged in stainless steel for 8 months and at least 12 months in bottle prior to release.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/donnafugata-ben-ry-/1407

Also look for Moscato di Pantelleria, a lighter, less sweet version of Moscato. Made from late-harvest grapes, it is not necessarily dried, so it gives you a more floral and fresh-fruited expression of the grape.

The other dessert wine of note from Sicily is Malvasia delle Lipari. It is made on the island of Lipari, off the coast of northeastern Sicily. Also made using the passito process, this wine is made from Malvasia di Lipari grapes.

Not to be overshadowed are the wines from southeastern Sicily. Warm, Mediterranean climate and intense sun produces full-bodied and round styles of Nero d’Avola, but also fresh fruity wines from the frappato grape.

Sicily’s only DOCG can be found here – Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Cerasuolo means “cherry-colored” in Italian, and to be classified as a Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the wines must be 50-70% nero d’avola and 30-50% frappato.

There are also wines produced from single varietal frappato and nero d’avola. For whites, grillo is a very important grape in the region as is inzolia.

WINE TO TRY: Lagovuveri 1697 Nero d’Avola

Located on the southern coast, many of the vines are grown within the Biviere di Gela Nature reserve close to the shores of Lake Biviere, a salt lake southeast of the city of Gela. Using organic farming and sustainable production practices, Lagovuveri strives to grow grapes and produce wines which express the true nature of the grapes and terroir. This wine is full-bodied, attractively intense, fruity, floral and a spiciness typical of the variety – black cherry, black plum, licorice, cinnamon.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/lagovuveri-1697-nero-d-avola/987

WINE TO TRY: Santa Tresa Rina Russa Frappato

Santa Tresa is located in Vittoria, in the Ragusa area of southeast Sicily. It is located on a plain, with the Dirillo river to the north, the Iblei mountains to the east and open to the sea on the south and west. Rina Russa means red sand, and the Frappato grapes are 100% Frappato di Vittoria, using a proprietary ancient clone developed on the Santa Tresa Estate. This wine is a beautiful light cherry color, with wild strawberries on the nose, silky and fresh red fruits, and a long finish. Medium-light bodied, with intense red berry, serve at room temperatures, or with a slight chill.

https://store.parkwaywineandliquor.com/product/santa-tressa-frapatto/166